San Telmo is one of the most typical neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires. Situated south of the city, it retains its houses that date back to colonial times, as well as its streets with paving stones. It was inhabited by aristocratic families until the yellow fever disease in 1871.
We recommend visiting:
Plaza Dorrego
San Pedro Telmo Church
El Viejo Almacén
As it was born around the city’s primitive port, San Telmo was soon invaded by the XIXth century immigration wave, with which its streets’ physiognomy started to change notoriously. Large houses belonging to well-connected people turned into “conventillos” (tenement houses), housing numerous families who had occupied them and lived crammed together. These immigrants, mainly devoted to crafts and commerce, imprinted their customs to this place, that was since then characterized by its street markets and its commercial trend.
Since 1970, San Telmo started to regain its worth. Old buildings were renovated and many of its buildings, with over 100 years of history, were declared Historical Heritage of the City.
At present, it is a neighborhood with an ample cultural display. Proof of this are art, cinema and television schools, as well as many antique shops and a street market that takes place during the weekends. Here, the visitor may buy beautiful antiques, ranging from a pasta record to the furniture for an entire house.
Also during the weekends, there are free tango shows, where the tourist may enter in contact with Buenos Aires’s typical music.
A historical spot where carriages used to stop, Plaza Dorrego is today the neighborhood’s centre. After Plaza de Mayo, it is the oldest square in the city. Antique shops, fine artists and many tourists gather around the street market on Sundays.
Located in 378 Humberto Iº street. It was built by the Jesuits around 1734.
Situated in Balcarce as it corners with Independencia street. It is a tango spot devised by singer Edmundo Rivero. The corner without “ochava” (building’s corner) is very picturesque. It once was a grocery store, a winery and Volga restaurant. On its Independence street facade there are hoops from where horses were tied.
Its port and colourful setting makes La Boca one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods in the city. It has been depicted by artist Quinquela Martín in paintings that reflect the zone’s laborious atmosphere.
We recommend visiting:
Caminito Street Museum
"Quinquela Martín" Fine Arts Museum
Wax Museum
Boca Juniors Club Football (Soccer) Stadium
Its peculiar building characteristics and customs reflect the noticeable influence of European citizens, mainly Genoese Italians, who settled here during the big immigration wave to Argentina, between 1860 and 1910. La “Piccola Italia”, as it is also called, is impregnated with a Mediterranean style, from its gastronomy, offered in traditional Italian-style canteens, to its architecture.
What is most characteristic of La Boca are its multi-coloured houses made of zinc-corrugated metal sheets, many of which are now tenement houses where numerous families live. The colours of houses give the neighbourhood its distinctive seal, depicting life in this place, inhabited –from its very origins– by humble and working people. Immigrants living here were, in general, poor people and not being able to buy materials to decorate their houses’ facades, they asked dockyards for their leftovers from ship painting. Such is the tradition of houses in La Boca, that today they are true exponents of popular architecture.
Another prominent feature of this neighbourhood are its sidewalks elevated with respect to the streets, built in that way to avoid flooding by Río de la Plata rises.
It is advisable to explore La Boca during daytime, when it has a life of its own and on Sundays when lots of activities are organised for tourists.
Open Monday to Sunday, 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. This is a traditional visit, where fine artists, photographers and tango couples, display their arts outdoors, with the peculiar colourfulness of metal sheet houses as setting. In addition, there are street markets where all kinds of crafts are offered.
Located in 1835 Pedro de Mendoza Avenue. Tel.4301-1080. The recently-renovated museum is built in a colourful public school highland. There are more than 700 works of art on display by the notable painter Benito Quinquela Martín, who succeeded in depicting La Boca’s typical beauty.
Located in 1261 Del Valle Iberlucea street. Tel. 4303-0563. You may see the country’s most outstanding personalities, reproduced in wax figures. Scenographies, episodes and situations serve as a framework to situate wax figures, thus making them seem even more natural.
Located between Roca Railway Tracks and the following streets: Del Valle Iberlucea, Brandsen, Aristóbulo del Valle’ prolongation. It may not be a place to explore, but it is definitely one to stand out, due to its rare shape it is called the “Bombonera”, after its similarity to a candy box.